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Arsene Lupin Dandy


Guerlain launched a pair of scents in 2010 as part of the Exclusifs line – Arsene Lupin Dandy and Arsene Lupin Voyou (French for “lout”), named for the fictional French Sherlock Holmes litereary character, Arsene Lupin. D’Orsay, a French perfume company with a fragrance called Dandy, threatened Guerlain with legal action if they continued using the name of Dandy, so the Dandy version is now called simply, Arsene Lupin. I have an original bottle with the name Dandy stamped on its black wooden frame, but the scent is the same.
This is a brilliant fragrance, instantly loved by men, women, and everyone in between, and beyond. It suits the character of Arsene Lupin and is described as an Oriental leather, but the scent feels so refined and elegant and contemporary, that the term Oriental leather sounds more like a Latin descriptor for a perfume from the Pleistocene era than for this gem.
Opening with a blast of bergamot and bigarade, tart-fruity lime and orange citrus, peppered-up with pink peppercorns and spicy cardamom, Dandy immediately takes my nose prisoner. It has an exquisitely balanced opening, not too tart, too sweet, or intense - totally tantalizing. And next, when dusted green violet leaves and dark purple velvety flowers are layered over expensive sueded gray leather – custom-made gloves for M. Lupin, very likely – I know my heart will be stolen. Powdery, elegant, ultra-chic, I can feel the Guerlinade effect starting to work its magic as the green florals mix with the bright spicy opening accord. When the heart and base notes gain momentum, I know that I’m falling hard for Dandy.
Creamy delicately-wooded sandalwood and herbal patchouli create an earthy richness, sweet labdanum and olibanum create balmy-magical incense notes with hints of smoked vanilla, and wind through the long dry-down, making the soft leather change in colour from gray to shimmering gold, and bringing Dandy into the realm of the classic Guerlains. Dandy is so beautifully balanced, so intricately constructed, is so light and subtle on my skin, and yet feels so warm and enveloping at the same time. This is a leather like no other, it smells other-worldly.
Notes: bergamot, pink pepper, cardamom, violet, incense, cistus, leather, and patchouli.
Type: EdP
Parfumeur: Jean-Paul Guerlain

Price: $5.00