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Au Coeur du Désert – Second time around, the love continues

 

Part One

I’m one of many who think that Andy Tauer’s ode to amber and incense, L’air du désert marocain, is one of the very best fragrances of modern perfumery. I was so stunned by the intense beauty of the sample I ordered online from Tauer Perfumes in Switzerland, I immediately bought a bottle. That was ten years ago and this piece of perfume art still fascinates me. The scent is perfection on both male and female skin, sweeter on some, smokier or more woody on others, loved by all who experience its transcendental dry-down.

Andy Tauer’s inspiration for L’air du désert marocain, Air of the Moroccan Desert, was a picture he imagined of the moon rising in Marrakesh in the early evening sky…the dry wind carrying the scents from the Sahara desert, and the spices of the busy streets below…

LADDM opens with a dense top-note accord of dry spice and citrus notes, coriander, cumin, petitgrain, bergamot, resting on a heart of rock rose (labdanum) and white jasmine. It almost takes my breath away. Body heat slowly ignites the sweeter floral notes and releases the smoky incense and woody balsamic resins of cedar, geranium, and vetiver which rise in waves of radiant warmth. Then all is grounded and softened by the wonderfully lush base notes of vanilla, patchouli, and ambergris, woven through with tendrils of airy smokiness from the incense.

L’air du désert marocain takes its time to develop, but the waiting is worth it. The individual notes aren’t important, the magic of this fragrance is in its power to stir memory and personal imagery so that wearing it becomes a sensory experience on many levels. A masterful creation, the EdT Intense releases a seamless waft of exotic pleasure that floats on skin for hours and hours.

Part Two

Late in 2016, Andy Tauer released a parfum extrait version of L'air du désert marocain which he named Au Coeur du Désert. With a 20% concentration of perfume oils, and a different emphasis in the pure rich ingredients, Au Couer du Désert is predictably different than L’air du desert marocain. The dry aromatic accord of cedar and vetiver in the original is dialed back, smoothed by more musky-salty ambergris, deepened by dark vanilla and velvety patchouli in the dry-down so that Au Coeur du Désert has a luxurious silky texture. a golden warmth compared to the ethereal incense waft of LADDM. Its waft is intimate, woody ambery and warm and wonderful, it melts on your skin.

The overall effect of Au Coeur du Désert is rounder and smoother than Tauer’s original masterpiece, the sharp edges sanded down to a patina. The long drydown has a little less smoke and a little more sweetness, a little less drama and more warmth, and definitely more elegance.

CONCLUSION

If L’Air du désert marocain is the moon rising over the desert, crisply silhouetted in the fading light of the evening sky then Au Coeur du Désert, In the Heart of the Desert, is the full moon suspended in the twinkling darkness of the desert night. The perfume concentration evokes different memories and reveals its heart so beautifully, it was inevitable that I would fall in love with it, too.

Another masterpiece from Andy Tauer, another fragrance for women and men to wear and love forever.

Au Coeur du Désert is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.

Image: Wikimedia Commons - Night poured over the desert by Sheila Sund, Janusary, 2017