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Chypre Palatin

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Launched in 2012 by perfume house MDCI, Chypre Palatin is my latest coup de foudre. Apparently, I am not alone as the whole blogosphere seems to be swooning over Bertrand Duchaufour’s creation. And so they should.
It opens with a sparkly green burst from aldehydes and green clementine that gives way to a dark, resinous note before it gets soapy. Aromatic thyme tempers the soapiness with an herbal note while fragrant lavender softly stamps it ‘masculine’. The opening has a real vintage feel to it, an homage almost, before it moves to a floral heart. Hyacinth, one of my favourite floral notes, has a rosy facet that leads the way to rich rose, exotic jasmine, iris concrete – which smells like violets and has a fruity aspect to it – prune and gardenia. This floral bouquet is stunning - slightly sweet, floral, fruity, warm and tenacious. As wonderful as this is, and believe me, the heart of this perfume alone is FBW, it’s the base notes that get me every time.
The notes are listed on the MDCI website as benjamin, styrax, leather, vanilla, tolu, castoreum, costus, oakmoss, everlasting absolute but it smells of wood, spice, smoke, leather, herbs and oakmoss – all of it perfectly rounded out with a note of vanilla. But here’s the thing: not one of these notes dominates, not one outshines the other so that the drydown is elegant, refined and surprisingly light and subtle given the heft of some of the ingredients used, making it completely unisex.
The MDCI is line is inspired by pivotal times in western civilization - ancient Greece, Rome and the Renaissance - hence the bisque busts that top their bottles. I suppose a case can be made for Chypre Palatin smelling of Roman sandals and leather, etc., so in that sense CP is staying true to the brand, but for me this is a modern frag that has a vintage feel up front but ends up squarely in the present.
A chypre by definition, a heart-stealer by design, Chypre Palatin smells like you want to wear it. All. The. Time.
Notes: hyacinth, green Clementine, aldehydes, cistus essence, galbanum essence, thyme, lavender, rose, jasmine, iris concrete, prune, gardenia, benjamin, styrax, leather, vanilla, tolu, castoreum, costus, oakmoss, everlasting absolute.
Type: EdP
Parfumeur: Bertrand Duchaufour

Price: $5.00