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Corps et Ames 2012 – I love you body and soul - April 8, 2013 New Fragrance Listing

Photo: The Ladies of Sens Unique in Paris. That's Renata on the right.

When Denyse Beaulieu spoke about the creation of Séville à l’Aube to a group of perfumistas at Soho House in Toronto a while back, she let us smell a couple of different iterations of the scent. It was really interesting to track the different stages in the development of a perfume. At one point, someone asked, “How do you know when to stop?”

Good question. How do you know when to stop adding garlic to your spaghetti sauce? More herbs to your bœuf bourguignon or more onions to your guacamole? You taste it. You know when it’s enough because changing anything would diminish it, lessen the effect, the experience and the pleasure of it.

Still, there are those times when you make the perfect dish, a roast chicken say, or lemon squares, and you think “The next time I make this, I’ll tweak here, put a little bit less of that and a little bit more of this and cook it for longer…”. You’re not making something that’s bad better, you’re taking something that’s really good and making a variation on it.

Perfumers do this too. Daniela Andrier revisited Prada Infusion d’Iris EdP and created an Absolute version. Pierre Guillaume revisited his 2006 creation Corps et Ames Eau de Parfum and created Corps et Ames 2012.

Kay wrote about the original Corps et Ames Eau de Parfum saying: “… the sharp dry geranium starts to sweeten with its spicy rose facets, and hints of sweet creamy jasmine from the Melati wood and the gorgeous immortelle flower drift in– that burnt hay/caramel, slightly curried note that is so unique. Soon joined by a soft sexy leather note, with a dirty-sweaty edge from oakmoss, the rosy heart develops into a rich, inviting accord that has an exotic heat – the forbidding female reveals her inner vixen.”

I love Corps et Ames Eau de Parfum and have a bottle of it, but once Corps et Ames 2012 started showing up on blogs as one of the top frags of 2012, I put it on my “Scents to try” list (it’s on the back of the perfumniche.com business card that you get when you order decants from us) before going to Paris. I walked into Sens Unique to smell it and walked out with a bottle and a big smile (Thank you Renata!)

It opens with verbena, soothing, green and gently anisic, its citrus facet plays on the citrus aspect of geranium leaf which adds a lovely minty greenness to the top notes. I smell patchouli here too, dark and deep, but not earthy or musty. As it moves to the heart, the rose facets of the geranium bloom and it begin to smell like roses, even though ‘rose’ isn’t listed anywhere in the ingredients – I don’t know why and I don’t want to know cause I don’t want to ruin the spell. Jasmin is here too and gives it an animalic whiff along with a creamy lushness. The base has a soft woodiness from sandalwood and a gentle warmth from musk. The drydown is sophisticated with an aromatic herbal/floral elegance.

Corps et Ames 2012 is labeled Eau de Toilette Apaisante. “Apaisante” means ‘lulling’ or ‘soothing’, a reference to the soothing qualities of verbena, and it’s an EdT, so you know it’s going to be lighter than the original. But the ‘lightness’ isn’t just in the concentration. The 2012 version has had the immortelle and leather stripped from it allowing light into it so that it has depth but not heaviness, making it a sunnier and lighter but not weaker. It hasn’t diminished the original, it just means there’s more excellent juice to wear.

I like to think of it this way: 'Corps et Ames' means body and soul, so Corps et Ames Eau de Parfum is of the body while Corps et Ames 2012 is of the soul.

Sometimes it’s good to revisit an old recipe.

Today, we’re adding Corps et Ames 2012 to our Decant Store. Decants are $4.00.