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Jasmin Antique – Lush blossoms, pure bliss

 

I have my nose in jasmine, Jasmin Anitique, the floral fragrance by Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery. I bought it last September, along with another Rogue fragrance, Chypre-Siam, which I immediately wrote about because I’m a pushover for a good chypre. I’ll leave Jasmin Antique for another day, I said. Well, that day is now.

On this cold cloudy January morning, sniffing jasmine on my wrists is pure bliss. The jasmine note in perfumery is at the top of the perfumers’ floral palette, along with rose. Its natural sweetness is narcotic because of the indoles, which give the delicate five-petaled white blossoms a powerful animalic skank. The scent of jasmine in bloom can carry for miles.

Using a short note list of jasminum grandiflorum blossoms (French jasmine), musk, clove, and vanilla, perfumer Manuel Cross has created his version of the scent of living jasmine, lush and creamy with fruity overtones, spicy and indolic, smooth, narcotic and enveloping. “Jasmin Antique is modeled after the fragrance of the jasmine we had planted in our garden twenty years ago. The plant still lives on and every early summer evening the fragrance of the blossoms hang heavy in the air.”

Jasmin Antique is a soliflore, a fragrance which features a single floral note, so it is all about jasmine, top to bottom. The opening definitely makes a jasmine statement, but the jasmine feels cool and clean and natural, with a light floral sweetness and just a suggestion of indoles, and as the juice warms on skin, I catch hints of lemon, a creamy lemon custard. Never too sweet, as the minutes go by the complex jasmine scent opens up with lush depth, releasing the seductively spicy clove and vanilla accord as well as the deep sultry indolic notes so unique to the jasmine blossoms. Over and over, my nose goes to my wrists and every time I discover another rich facet of this impossibly evocative floral scent. 

Jasmin Antique is a big narcotic white floral that holds nothing back, and all the elements that make the jasmine note so distinctive are featured, but they are masterfully balanced and controlled so that the fragrance has a uniquely pure and intimate quality, (unlike Lush/Gorilla Lust, which is stupendously sweet indolic jasmine from top to bottom, and spectacular, BTW). As it dries down in the base, the scent pulls back and politely dials down the jasmine drama a bit, so that the floral scent hovers on skin, relaxed and unpretentious with a delicious sillage that hums, subtly animalic and sensuous. 

Manuel Cross is an independent perfumer who has quickly been acknowledged by the perfume world since he launched his line in 2020. Manuel creates what he calls “unhindered fragrance art…non-commercial, non-contemporary fragrances…” which he began creating in response to what he saw as the systematic destruction of classic perfume styles from IFRA and EU regulations. He began composing vintage-style fragrances, honest-to-god authentic perfumes unfettered by regulation, made from high quality traditional materials at his home in California, in small batches, and bottled by hand. Complex, deep, full-bodied real perfumes that smell absolutely great. 

Jasmin Antique is exactly that – complex, deep, full-bodied. An authentic, exceptional fragrance that smells absolutely great and makes the simple act of wearing perfume a blissful pleasure. 

Note: CaFleureBon awarded Jasmin Antique an Honorable Mention in the Top Ten in 2020 Natural Perfume category, and also believe that Rogue Perfumery is one of the best lines to come out of America in the last decade.

Jasmin Antique is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $6.00 for 1 ml.

Image - Jasmin Antique 30 ml. bottle -  perfumeniche.com