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Jicky Parfum Extrait – More of everything, full, rich and creamy

I love the old Guerlain fragrances.  Apres l’Ondee, Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit. Shocking in their originality when they were introduced decades ago, they still stand as the benchmarks against which modern fragrances are compared and measured.

I’ve worn Guerlain’s Jicky for a long long time. I wore Jicky EdT  on and off for a few years before I really understood it, but I finally “got it” and began to experience it in living colour instead of black and white. Wearing it in warm weather was the key to creating the magic on my skin.

Aimé Guerlain’s Jicky is the oldest perfume still living, breathing, and selling in the perfume world. Introduced in 1889, it was the first “abstract” fragrance because of its complex, pyramid structure – top, middle, base – which made it so different from the simple soliflore scents which preceded it with their focus on a single recognizable note, such as rose, or lemon, or violet from top to bottom.  Jicky also contained the civet note under the accords of lavender and creamy vanilla, herbs and lemony citrus, which created a seductive animalic stink, the scent of of sex, of warm sexy skin, a new experience for perfume enthusiasts.  This brilliant use of civet and other new synthetic notes such as musks and coumarin, transformed Jicky into the first unisex scent, worn first by men, then claimed by women, and loved and worn by both men and women to this very day.

After I fell in love with the Eau de Toilette•• version, I went all-in and bought a bottle of the Parfum Extrait, loving the distinctive pharmacy bottle with its “champagne cork” stopper as much as I love the gorgeous juice inside it. I listed Jicky EdT in our Decant Store several years ago, and now I’m adding the Parfum Extrait because perfume lovers should have the opportunity to experience the different beauty in each version.

To refresh your memory…..

Jicky Eau de Toilette

The Eau de Toilette opens with a bright citrus blast, a punch in the face of lemon and bergamot on a bed of peppery aromatic lavender. The scent drifts toward herbal then soon sweetens with creamy vanilla custard, mixing the citrus accord into a delicious lemon-meringue cofection. And then the civet note wafts in from a distance, draping Jicky with a light veil of animalic skank. I process the civet as warm sexy skin, not skank, a scent that mixes seductively with the lavender-vanilla and rose-jasmine heart notes. The dry-down is warmed and sweetened by amber, vanilla and a spicy woody accord with hints of smoky incense. The notes weave in and out with a softly persistent and tenacious waft which lifts lightly off the skin.

And introducing….

Jicky Parfum Extrait

Jicky Parfum is definitely different from the EdT. It has a more nuanced presence right from the start, less brash but more of everything, more rounded and full, rich and creamy, subtly orchestrated so that the notes and accords unfold seamlessly and slowly. The civet is quietly there at the top and builds slowly, demanding attention and gathering momentum into the heart, wrapping Jicky Parfum in a cashmere blanket of skankiness rather than the light veil in the EdT version. The base is filled with warm cozy amber, bits of leather from benzoin, creamy sandalwood and rosewood, lazy seductive musks and dark vanilla, and its deep beauty wafts subtly for hours, making Jicky Parfum Extrait feel much more grown-up than the EdT. 

So, here’s the difference between the two Jicky versions:

Jicky EdT is lighter with more lavender and citrus but still has enough of the civet skank appeal to keep it interesting all through the day. 

Jicky Parfum Extrait is bigger and fuller and darker and richer with a big dose of civet and musks to keep it interesting all through the night.

Try them both, and you’ll see for yourself.

Jicky Parfum Extrait is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $20.00 for 1 ml.

Jicky EdT is listed in our Decant store. Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.

 

**EdT = 5-15%, most around 10% aromatic compounds – usually bright and sparkly, light waft and low duration, less expensive. Good for daywear.

EdP = 10-20%, most around 15% - heavier and more complex on the skin, powerful waft, more expensive. Good for eveningwear.

Extrait de Parfum = 15-40%, most around 20% - complex and sophisticated, creates a subtle intimate aura which is very long-lasting, most expensive. Good for glamwear, which is anytime you damn well please!

Also, perfumers often change the formulae between the different concentrations, so that different notes or accords are featured.

Source: Perfumeshrine.com

Image - guerlain.com