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Mûre et Musc

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Mûre et Musc is the  fragrance that established Pierre Laporte as a visionary perfumer and L’Artisan Parfumeur as the innovative brand in modern perfumery. Mûre et Musc, which set the perfume world buzzing with its innovative fusion of tart sweet wild blackberries with the warm fruity facets of the new synthetic “white musks”. The result was a fresh and playful but subtle and sexy scent that could be worn easily by women and men, and which, after its 1978 launch, immediately became a best-seller. Over forty years later, it still is. 

Mûre et Musc is fresh, light and soft, typical of the fragrances from the late 1970’s. It’s one of those scents that can seem to fade quickly or disappear, but then has deceptive strength, returning unexpectedly in lovely sheer wafts. I find it superb in hot weather, unobtrusive but always interesting with the tart blackberry, subtly sexy from the musks with their soft sweat-on-warm skin notes. 

The listed notes are citrus, blackberries, and musks, but of course there is much more going on. Jean Claude Ellena mentions citrus – bergamot and lemon, and herbs – tarragon and lavender. “As blackberry extract does not exist in perfumery, the inspired alchemist created it blending a molecule often found in flavoured foods, reminiscent of the coveting warmth of cooked raspberries, with a blackurrant note. The illusion is perfect: one can almost see, smell and touch 'blackberry'. “  

But it’s not the big blackberries in fruit salad or blackberry jam, the note is the scent of small wild blackberry fruits on the stem, warmed by summer heat, scented with stems and dust and leaves and grass and earth underfoot. The aromatic citrus and herbs notes prevent Mûre et Musc from being cloying or jammy, and oak moss in the base fills in green woody facets, keeping the sensation fresh and unfussy. 

Mûre et Musc is superbly uncomplicated, but beautifully refined in its simplicity. The citrus and blackberry accord fades through the long dry-down but never completely disappears, the musks are clean-sexy rather than funky, which give the scent a refined sophistication. 

Notes: wild blackberry, musk, citrus

Type: EdT

Parfumeurs: Pierre Laporte, Jean Claude-Ellena

Price: $5.00