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Auphorie is a small artisanal perfume company in Malaysia, created in 2014 by twin brothers Eugene and Emyrs Au. Their first fragrance , Miyako, won the 2016 Art and Olfaction Golden Pear award for Best Artisanal Fragrance.

Miyako is about the osmanthus note. Golden osmanthus is an Asian flower that has a delicate but complex sweet scent, very fragrant with a peach or apricot top note that’s juicy and succulent, with creamy overtones, and leathery undertones. I’ve only experienced osmanthus in the transparent beauty of Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan, a marriage of osmanthus blossom with notes of green tea and light florals, a seamless kind of fragrance that is weightless on skin, a sensation more than a scent.

Miyako is a parfum extrait, not an EdT, and I wasn’t prepared for what came out of the bottle. Miyako opens fruity and sweet, a lusty accord of ripe peach and sun-warmed apricot, spiked with bitter acidy citrus from yuzu (Japanese lemon) which gives a yin and yang sensation to the first few minutes. The apricot note becomes deeper with hints of creamy almond slowly moving into pure sweet osmanthus with a lovely green tea aspect.

In the heart the leather note develops, creating a fruity sweet leather accord that’s heavenly, opulent and fascinatingly complex. In the base, the leather note wanes replaced by precious wood notes - aromatic hinoki and sandalwood create a resinous airiness, patchouli adds an earthy powdery layer to the osmanthus, and musk and sweet katsura leaf make the dry-down silky smooth. Miyoko lasts on my skin for 10-12 hours, with a low waft perfectly suited for any perfume lover.

The “big” perfume notes each have their own chemical story and are so nuanced and complex they can be considered, as Turin points out, to be fragrances on their own – like rose, or jasmine, or lily of the valley. Osmanthus is in that “big note” category, and Miyoko tells the story of this unique floral note from top to bottom like no other perfume, in my experience. Eugene and Emyrs have amplified each aspect of the fruity-leathery osmanthus to absolute perfection, and created a truly beautiful and powerful fragrance that is pure pleasure to wear.

Notes: Apricot, yuzu, peach, osmanthus, jasmine, green tea, leather, Hinoki wood, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, katsura leaf

Type: Parfum extrait

Parfumeurs: Eugene and Emyrs Au

Price: $0.00