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Miyako Extrait – Pure pleasure - June 10th, 2016

 

Miyako parfum extrait bottle - auphorie.com

If you were starting a career as a young person, would you choose to become a self-taught perfumer and start your own independent company? If you were twin brothers in your mid-twenties, would you both decide to become self-taught perfumers and start a company together? And then would the two of you work really hard and create a stunning scent that wins the Art and Olfaction Golden Pear award for Best Artisan Fragrance in 2016?

You might not take such a huge leap into the unknown, but twin brothers Eugene and Emyrs Au from Malaysia did just that in 2014, and two years later their little company Auphorie, and their big scent Miyako, are the talk of the niche perfume world. This fragrance has hit an emotional chord with perfume lovers - Luca Turin says it’s “just drop-dead wonderful” and that it’s the fragrance that “started me blogging again.” – check out his new blog perfumesilove.com  After reading his comments, I decided I had to have a bottle of Miyoko so I ordered online directly from Auphorie, and a few days later the package arrived, along with a hand-written note from Eugene thanking me for my patronage. Already there is a personal connection.

Miyako is about the osmanthus note. Golden osmanthus is an Asian flower that has a delicate but complex sweet scent, very fragrant with a peach or apricot top note that’s juicy and succulent, with creamy overtones, and leathery undertones. I’ve only experienced osmanthus in the transparent beauty of Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan, a marriage of osmanthus blossom with notes of green tea and light florals, a seamless kind of fragrance that is weightless on skin, a sensation more than a scent.

Osmanthus fragrans, orange flower - Wikipedia

Miyako is a parfum extrait, not an EdT, and I wasn’t prepared for what came out of the bottle. Miyako opens fruity and sweet, a lusty accord of ripe peach and sun-warmed apricot, spiked with bitter acidy citrus from yuzu (Japanese lemon) which gives a yin and yang sensation to the first few minutes. The apricot note becomes deeper and creamy and slowly blooms into pure sweet osmanthus paired with a lovely green tea aspect.

In the heart the leather note develops, creating a fruity sweet leather accord that’s heavenly, opulent and fascinatingly complex. In the base, the leather note wanes replaced by precious wood notes - aromatic hinoki and sandalwood create a resinous airiness, patchouli adds an earthy powdery layer to the osmanthus, and musk and sweet katsura leaf make the dry-down silky smooth. Miyoko lasts on my skin for 10-12 hours, with a low waft perfectly suited for any perfume lover.

The “big” perfume notes each have their own chemical story and are so nuanced and complex they can be considered, as Turin points out, to be fragrances on their own – like rose, or jasmine, or lily of the valley. Osmanthus is in that “big note” category, and Miyako tells the story of this unique floral note from top to bottom like no other perfume, in my experience. Eugene and Emyrs have amplified each aspect of the fruity-leathery osmanthus to absolute perfection, and created a truly beautiful and powerful fragrance that is pure pleasure to wear.

These two self-taught perfumers have talent, but they also have a vision. In a recent interview with cafleurebon, they said:

It is part of our philosophy to employ a large proportion of rare natural ingredients into our fragrances which results in fragances that are "shibui", sophisticated, and hard to duplicate or mass produce….

We insist on making our perfumes in small batches only in order to ensure the quality. ….we have no intention to manufacture them in large scale either, despite the increasing demand. We think this is what distinguishes between artisan perfumers and the rest.

Many of my most favourite fragrances are from artisanal companies, the ones who push boundaries and create with strong personal vision  – Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes, Vero Kern of Vero Profumo, Abdes Al Saalam of La Via del Profumo, Josh Lobb of Slumerhouse, Victor Wong of Zoologist to name a few. Their work keeps me coming back for more, I feel a personal connection. Now I have to add Auphorie and the Au brothers to my list.

 

Miyako Extrait is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $9.00 for 1 ml.