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Nose-to-Nose - Nosing around with Esther - Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Photo - Wikipedia -Unknown dog breed treeing, Scochran, March 29, 2010 

New in niche
The always interesting folks at Comme des Garçons have a new perfume coming out called—drum roll please—A New Perfume. (Thanks to the lovely Robin at Now Smell This for sharing the news!) The press release is, like virtually all fragrance-related press releases, over the top, but nevertheless intriguing: aldehydes, hawthorn, lilac, industrial glue, brown scotch tape and musk (among other notes) all in a “rejected” bottle. If you’d told me a year ago I’d be itching to try a perfume with notes of industrial glue and brown scotch tape, I’d have suggested you take another hit off that bong, but, well, here I am. Itching. (And if you’re interested in checking out CdG’s other perfumes, Gwen and Kay have a number of them on offer.)
 
Vintage appeal
Elsa Peretti is one of my absolute favourite designers of jewelry and housewares—for my 40th birthday a few years ago, I pooled birthday cash with some savings and bought her starfish necklace from Tiffany’s . So, when I discovered that she’d designed the bottle for Halston perfume, I was intrigued—and as soon as I saw the bottle, I recognized her touch. There’s an information-packed post on the perfume on the blog Yesterday’s Perfume . Blogger Barbara Herman isn’t too impressed by the new formulation of Halston, which I’ve seen pop up at discount stores like Winners in Canada and TJ Maxx in the US. I haven’t sniffed the vintage version, though the currently available one doesn’t smell completely awful to my nose—though maybe if I had the chance to sniff vintage and new side by side, I’d be harsher in my assessment too.
 
Nosing around
What happens when nine perfumers are let loose to produce scents that match their own passions—no corporate client, no celebrity namesake? Neil Sternberg takes us inside a “speed sniffing” event  put on by International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) with 9 of their top perfumers. It’s a terrific read—if only the internet were scratch and sniff! The perfumers include Clément Gavarry, Carlos Benaim, Bruno Jovanovic, Jean-Marc Chaillan, Celine Baren, Yves Cassar, Laurent le Guernac, Loc Dong and Pascal Gaurin. Le Guernac and Gavarry are the noses behind Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely, the creation of which you can read about in Chandler Burr’s book The Perfect Scent.

 
Makes me want to try it
Jean-Claude Ellena’s newest scent for Hermes, Santal Massoia, isn’t on shop shelves yet and it’s already been declared a classic work of “maximum minimalist art” by Chandler Burr. (Today’s post is becoming a Burr-athon—see the mention of his book above and his TEDx talk below under “Just because”). Elena Vosnaki at the blog Perfume Shrine gives us a sneak peek at the scent , and her description has me itching to sniff it: sandalwood with green, creamy notes. Mmmm. Can’t wait! It’s due in Hermes shops in mid-November.
 
 
Deals, deals, deals
British perfumer Ormonde Jayne  is offering complimentary shipping on all international orders (though you may still be hit with brokerage and customs fees, depending on the country in which you reside). Want to sniff before you buy? Kay and Gwen have Ormonde Jayne Woman  on offer. And if you’re looking for a cheap thrill closer to home, check out Chopard Madness  on sale for $24.75US for 2.5 oz EDP at Parfum1. Victoria Frolova at the blog Bois de Jasmin  lists Madness as one of her top “anti-best sellers” that should have been bigger hits than they were.
 
 
Just because
I mentioned Chandler Burr’s book above. Burr has gone on to become the Curator of the Department of Olfactory Art at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City, and the department’s first exhibition will open in November, 2011. Recently, Burr gave a talk at a TEDx conference in Budapest where he explored the concept of perfume as a bona fide art form. (Thanks to the always informative Perfume Shrine  for the link!) Burr focuses on three perfumes--Guerlain Jicky, Chanel No. 5 and new release Hermes Santal Massoia—and also mentions Robert Piguet Fracas, Comme des Garçons Odour 53, Maison Martin Margiela UntitledDior Diorama and Givenchy L’Interdit. If you’re interested in sniffing along with his talk, click on the perfume titles—Gwen and Kay offer some of the mentioned fragrances.
 

Cheers until next time,

Esther