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Sådanne – It’s all about the base, about the base, the base – September 11, 2015

 

image - Sadanne parfum extrait - slumberhouse.com

I want you to smell what I’m smelling. Take a long slow inhale, then see and feel this brilliant perfume, let it fill all your senses. It's intoxicating. It’s Sådanne, from perfumer Josh Lobb of Slumberhouse, the small niche company in Portland Oregon, which, according to the homepage makes “fine, improper perfumes”.

I’ve been craving rich layered scents, and once again it’s a Slumberhouse fragrance to the rescue. I’ve written about Norne, the incredible resinous scent of the deep and ancient Northwest forest, a scent that still brings me to my knees. And I’ve written about Pear + Olive, an arresting sweet-savoury gourmand which transforms into the most divine skin scent. Josh Lobb is an extraordinarily skilled perfumer.

Sådanne is apparently Josh’s first serious attempt at a floral, a rose scent that even he could wear. I’m hard-pressed to describe Sadanne as a rose, or a floral. I find it difficult to describe it rationally at all, which is why I want you to smell it, but I’ll try. Josh Lobb hasn’t provided a note list for this 2014 release, so here goes…

Sådanne is luscious ripe fruits…strawberry, cherry, raspberry, …which come out of the bottle in a shimmery wave of dense sweetness, so shiny and sweet and red that this berry accord feels surreal. But before I can say “Snow White”, a sour bitter note floats up, changing syrupy-sweet to fruity-boozy, fuzzy, fermenting, and yeasty, and I know that Sådanne has an interesting story to tell. This may be turning into a rose, but this rose has been around a pole or two.

The heart of Sådanne becomes this sweet fruitiness of over-ripe berries simmered in dark winey liqueur, moving into a floral as I detect red thorny roses, leafy and wilting, layered with golden tobacco leaves. It’s an earthy floral heart as the sweetness subsides, but it doesn’t prepare me for the base.

Sådanne slides right into the base, and transforms into an animalic pleasure palace, absolutely funky and gorgeous. There has to be musk, or civet, or ambergris, or all three notes, to get to this level of raunchiness. Whatever the combo, mixed with the sweet drunken berries and earthy rose, as well as hints of leather and resins, the effect of these animalic notes is magnetic, and it lasts for hours. Sweet, earthy and erotic.

Josh Lobb said in an excellent interview by Ron Slomowicz on notablescents.com. that he focuses on base notes in his perfumes, using heavy concentrations: “…I don’t really care for top notes…fragrances are best experienced after they have been on the skin for a few hours and sort of melted into your skin and you have the sweet, dark, smoky smell…”

Yes, Josh, I agree. It’s all about the base. That’s what I love about your perfumes – the sweetness mixed with the darkness, the texture, the sensuality, the mystery, the twists and turns on your journey into new perfume sensations.

I think you make very fine, improper perfumes, and Sådanne is the most improper of all of them.

Sådanne is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $7.00.