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Salome is the fourth fragrance launched by gifted independent perfumer Liz Moores under her Papillon Artisan Perfumes brand. Gwen has written about her first fragrance, the deep resinous leathery Anubis, which she created as her own personal signature scent, and which made the perfume world stand up and pay attention to the big new talent of Liz Moores.
For Salome,  her website says her inspiration came from a vintage photograph of a 1920’s erotic dancer she has in the hallway of her home. She wondered about this woman’s mysterious beauty and felt that her evocative portrait lent itself to the story of Salome. In an interview, Liz says she finds Salome “to be one of the most compelling femme fatales ever depicted in history. She was demanding, dangerously powerful, spellbinding and dark. Salome demanded a perfume that could match her untameable nature and I challenged myself to create a perfume that I felt reflected these aspects.”
The opening definitely has a vintage feeling. Bright and gold with bitter orange and bergamot, lush with sweet orange blossom, heavy with velvety rose and dusty spiced carnation, but the addictive animalic notes follow quickly, and change everything. Hyraceum or African Stone, which comes from the dried feces of the African Cape Hyrax, and carries a pissy sour feral scent with sweet facets of tobacco and mulch, wraps around the rose floral accord, sending the drydown into danger territory. Then castoreum, from beaver scent glands, with its leathery raunchy thick warmth raises the temperature, and finally in the heart indolic jasmine releases its heady molecules, making Salome smell downright filthy, in the best of all possible ways. In the heart, Salome is hot, sweaty, leathery, smoky, funky, sensual, beautiful …in a word, erotic. Incredibly erotic.
In the base, the richness of the animalic floral accord is softened with patchouli, sueded leather and hay-like notes, dark vanilla and cumin lend a savoury-sweet aspect, and hints of the bright citrus opening notes add a perfect balance as this animalic whirlwind very slowly winds down. Salome lasts for hours and hours, it needs warm skin to tell its long story. Liz Moores has created a living vintage perfume, dark, powerful and spellbinding, just like a perfume should be if its name is Salome.
Salome is carnal and uncompromising. It’s made for intimacy. Take Muscs Koublai Khan, push the civet and indoles to the limit, load in sumptuous florals over honeyed woods and tobacco and moss, flavor with cumin and castoreum, blanket with musky leather and patchouli, mist with vanilla and cumin and hay, then carefully apply this elixir called Salome to bare skin – yours and someone else’s. Inhale deeply for several hours, wait for the fireworks. If you’re one of those who crave debauchery in the form of lusty, unashamedly filthy, untameable, and incredibly alive fragrances which enslave your senses and take you into a dimension of pure beauty, then you won’t be disappointed.
Notes: bitter orange and bergamot, turkish rose, orange blossom, tobacco, carnation, jasmine and hyrax, styrax, vanilla, hay, patchouli, oakmoss, cumin, birch and castoreum.
Type: EdP
Parfumeur: Liz Moores

Price: $6.00