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Sideris – Walking after Midnight – October 15, 2012 New Fragrance Listing

I bought four perfumes from Maria Candia Gentile’s website after I read about her on cafleurebon earlier this year– I would have bought all of them except for the enormous credit charge I would have had to explain to myself. I’ve written about Barry Lyndon and Exultat, both extraordinarily beautiful scents which are listed as decants on our site. Well, it’s time to add another to the MCG listings – Sideris.

Sideris was “born during a walk along a Mediterranean beach in Liguria (Italy) at night. The moment was so beautiful that one could feel like floating in the air, between the sea and the stars in the sky. It is purely poetic fragrance. Dedicated to the last night star "In The Morning You Always Come Back" a poem written by the author Cesare Pavese: “Star lost in the light of dawn - trill of the breeze - warmth, breath - the night is done - You are the light and morning.” – mariacandidagentile.com

Sideris is a scent that opens into darkness - no bright citrus or fruity notes here. Notes of frankincense, labdanum (rock rose) myrtle and saffron weave into a masterful accord of resin, herbs and spice, an inspired opening which sets the mood of dark tones. For the first five minutes, this mix of aromatic notes hovers in perfect balance, and to my nose, smells fascinatingly rich but not heavy or powdery. I can smell the night air, the sea and sand, the scented herbs and grasses from the hills, it’s like my own memory. As I sit and enjoy its intoxicating waft, it begins to change…

A vibrant spicy rose starts to come forward out of the shadows, richly floral rose scented with a honeyed undertone, slightly sharp and very alive. The resinous herbal notes pull back into the shadows and spicy red-rose sweetness is now the waft that intrigues my nose. Sideris is still rich but less dark, and has a lightness to it that seems to float. It all smells so real, so here-and-now – am I in some kind of romantic dream?

In the dry-down, incense is deepened by sandalwood, myrrh and benzoin, a creamy- ambery- woody accord with hints of smoke, which echoes the resin notes from the opening but which forms the perfect base for the rose, reflecting its lush feminine beauty as it slowly opens to the dawn light, and the stars fade away. Out of the darkness of night comes light, warmth, beauty.

Maria Candida Gentile, the perfumer, describes herself as a poet, a poet who expresses herself with a “vocabulary filled with dancing molecules.” She creates her perfumes in the classical manner, using exceptional materials and complex structure. All her fragrances that I’ve tested to date have great depth and subtlety, and incredible lasting power, but at the same time, they have a very modern vibe.

Sideris is one of her first scents, and also one of her best, I think. It is a very modern vision of rose, inspired by a midnight walk on the Riviera, created by a perfume poet, and definitely not a rose for old ladies.

You should try it.

Sideris is listed in our Decant Store.  Decants are $4.00 for 1 ml.