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Tangeri - Sueded iris, spice, and mossy elegance

Keiko Mecheri "Bespoke Collection"

Hot humid and sunny makes me want cool green and mossy. It’s just what happens every summer. It's vetiver season.

My perfumeniche partner, Gwen, describes herself as a vetiverivore, I think I’m more of a vetiverivist. Frankly, I don’t know if there is much of a difference, I think we’re just having fun with words, but the fact of the matter is that way back when we first fell into the perfume pond, the vetiver note cast a powerful spell on both of us. We've been seriously vetiverred, and over the past decade purchased many many fabulous vetiver fragrances. We joke about having too many, like that's even possible!!

Today is DEFINITELY hot humid and sunny, but vetiver is NOT on my Want List. I feel a powerful urge for something different, something interesting and unexpected, something uncomplicated but transporting. Something that is NOT vetiver. So I went searching among the bottles and boxes on my perfume shelves. 

I found Tangeri in Keiko Mecheri's Bespoke Collection, a box with seven fragrances that's been in my collection since 2014, three of which I love and have written about, Canyon DreamsSousanne, and Vetiver Velours. Bespoke is a word not often used in contemporary vernacular – it means “made to fit for, or commissioned for, a particular person”, as in a bespoke suit What is bespoke, therefore, is customized, made-to-measure, usually hand-crafted with quality materials, special, different, designed for individual tastes, not meant for everyone – all of which describe Tangeri to perfection.

The notes in Tangeri are listed as balsam, iris, cardamom, moss oud, and black suede, not particularly summery notes, but notes that I include in my list of favourites. Before I even spritz, I already like Tangeri.  

With the first spritz there's a burst of fresh citrusy balsam, then the notes come together with waves of soft grey iris (orris) into an accord of velvety sueded leather, perfectly spiced with cardamom and deepened with flashes of oud, not too heavy or dark. This accord feels soothing and calm, and as notes of dried oakmoss begin to float through the mix, Tangeri transforms into a scent that exudes sophisticated elegance. 

As it dries down into the base, this sueded accord becomes more musky, and through the long dry-down, balsamic resins, cardamon spice and oakmoss quietly backlight the beauty of the elegant iris, keeping Tangeri interesting, and non-linear. Perfectly unisex, with good longevity and a subtle sensual sillage, Tangeri is uniquely different, a dry silky smooth scent that makes you feel good about your day. 

Keiko Mecheri, along with perfumeur Yann Vasnier, created her Bespoke Collection most likely for herself, making unique scents that fulfilled her personal artistic vision, knowing that they would not appeal to everyone but would be a glamorous gift for herself and perfume lovers seeking fragrances beyond the norm, “niche within niche”. 

Tangeri is different and interesting, unexpected,  uncomplicated,  transporting. Count me in as one of those very lucky perfume lovers.

Tangeri is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $6.00 for 1 ml.

Image - MiN New York