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Un Bois Vanille


Un Bois Vanille opens sweet, I smell milky coconut with a hint of curry or anise – it must be immortelle. This sweet opening, though, soon develops a dark roasted quality - the smell of brown sugar caramelizing, or coffee or almonds roasting, with burning wood mixed in. It’s a tantalizing note with a bitter edge, and I can definitely detect dark vanilla underneath. The sensation of Un Bois Vanille at this point is definitely un-foody, definitely woodsy.
In the heart, vanilla blooms with a hint of almond, then is unexpectedly joined by a floral note, a true rose which adds a spicy pungent energy, but it, too, eventually leads back into the woods. Creamy sandalwood and smoky guaiac wood mix with the floral, then segue into a comforting wrap of tonka and soft musk in the dry-down….and warm dark vanilla, restrained, edgy, mysterious, with smoke curling round the edges.
Un Bois Vanille is fascinatingly complex, a full-spectrum experience of vanilla created through the contrast with woods. Sweet, milky, spicy, roasted, creamy, warm, smoky, deep, dark, the scent reveals every delicious facet of this familiar note, including some we may never have consciously perceived. It is way beyond a “vanilla frag”, and in a class of its own.
Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake have a knack for taking things off the pantry shelf, like vanilla, and giving them back to us as works of art.
Notes: sandalwood, black licorice, coconut milk, beeswax, bitter almond, musk, vanilla, benzoin, guaiac wood and tonka bean.
Type: EdP
Parfumeurs:Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake

Price: $6.00