Absolument absinthe – cool and warm and luminous

Photo: perfuemniche

I discovered Absolument absinthe at a fragrance exposition I attended in New York in 2014. I was moving from exhibitor to exhibitor, learning about their new launches, trying out new fragrances, and picking up samples. I met many great perfumers there, and I learned a great deal from them, as I had expected to. However, the biggest surprise was meeting Pascal Rolland.

I had never heard of him, but I had lots to learn from him. French-born Rolland had founded the Liquoristerie de Provence in 1999 and, along with his partner, perfumer Marc Villaceque, produced Versinthe – one of the first absinthes made after the ban on absinthe in France was lifted. Absinthe is a highly alcoholic drink based on a “holy trinity” of herbs: artemisia (wormwood), which gives it the distinct bitter note, green anise, and sweet fennel. When absinthe is mixed with water and poured over a sugar cube, it turns a pale milky green colour. French bohemians dubbed it the Green Fairy because of its mind-altering effects, which led to its banishment until 1999.

Working in the distillery, he was surrounded by the soft, intriguing scent of the green herbs that filled the air and clung to his clothes. He loved the smell and wanted to create a fragrance that captured it. Working with Marc Villaceque again, they created Absolument absinthe and launched it in 2006.

The moment I smelled it on my skin, I was smitten. As Rolland explained, Absolument absinthe is more than just a Green Fairy, it is ‘le parfum d'nterdits’ or ‘the perfume of forbidden things’ because it contains a note of cannabis.

On me, Absolument absinthe begins with a sparkling note of bright bergamot, paired with a note of earthy, soothing black tea, to create an accord that’s refreshing and lively. It’s joined by aromatic cannabis, which adds smokiness and spicy warmth that calms the liveliness and sparks a note of fresh absinthe to come forward. It smells anisic, herbal, and bitter. It links to galbanum, which is intensely green, foresty-faceted, and spicy, rounding out the freshness of the absinthe. I’m loving the contrasts of freshness and spiciness, but when white florals join the party, Absolument absinthe goes up a gear. Lily of the valley, fresh, green, and subtly sweet, leads the pack, as lotus flower adds a delicate, aquatic, green-tinged airiness, and jasmine, green-faceted and animalic, are joined by creamy, sensual ylang-ylang. Nutmeg and cardamon give the flowers a gentle spicy warmth. This subtly sweet, green-edged white floral bouquet is an intoxicating mix that opens up Absolument absinthe, giving it a sheer luminescence. Sandalwood at the base has a resinous and slightly smoky aroma, as musk adds warmth and sensuality.

Absolument absinthe has many layers, and I discover new aspects every time I wear it – a note of powder, something camphorous – but what makes Absolument Absinthe so intriguing is the interplay between light and deep, cool and warm, vegetal and floral that develops seamlessly and dries down to a well-balanced, beautiful scent that lingers seductively on skin.

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