Invasion Barbare – aromatic and warm and comforting

Photo: perfumeniche

When ‘Perfumes the A-Z Guide’ was published in 2008, it opened up the world of niche fragrances to perfume lovers everywhere with its reviews of little-known perfumes like Invasion Barbare from French indie line MDCI Parfums. Turin gave it a five-star review and praised the perfumer, Stéphanie Bakouche, as a talent to watch. Invasion Barbare quickly became a cult favourite; today, it’s considered a classic. Like many great fragrances, this one has a backstory, and it’s a good one.

Stéphanie Bakouche was born in Paris in 1979. By age five, she knew she wanted to be a perfumer, so she trained at the French perfume school ISIPCA and was mentored by Bertrand Duchaufour.

In 2005, when she was just 26, she happened to meet Claude Marchal, who was starting his brand, MDCI Parfums, at a trade show. They talked, and she asked him if he would accept some samples from her. He said he would. They met again, and she gave him some samples and Invasion Barbare was born.

But in 2008, the question was how I was going to get a bottle. At that time, MDCI Parfums had a direct and online marketing strategy with no agents or distributors. So I contacted Claude Marchal directly, and he suggested we meet for an espresso the next time I was in Paris. I was beyond excited.

Claude Marchal is handsome, genial, charming and affable. I liked him right away.  We talked about travel, family, and life in Paris and discovered a shared love for Chamonix. He was generous with his time and eager to share some of his observations on the niche perfume business and the luxury fragrance market.

As Invasion Barbare settled on my skin, I began to understand how it became so popular so fast: it’s fantastic.

It opens with crisp bergamot paired with sharp, refreshing grapefruit. These are followed by the green tang of violet leaves, linking to a note of aromatic lavender that is fragrant and fresh, with floral and woody undertones. We are definitely in fougère territory, but things are about to shift with the introduction of herbs and spices. White thyme leaves are spicy and herbaceous with leather-like tones, while cardamom boosts the spicy warmth and adds a touch of sweetness. Artemisia is pungent, green, and bitter. As it moves to the base, costus, leathery, earthy and animalic gives Invasion Barbare virility. Patchouli is sweet, earthy, and woody, adding depth to the fragrance and supporting a note of cedarwood. Bourbon vanilla gives a warm, comforting sweetness to the mix that’s finished with musk.

Invasion Barbare dries down to a luxuriously refined scent that struts just a little bit. This is a modern update of a classic fougère that’s somehow new but familiar.

Stéphanie Bakouche is known for her pugnacity when it comes to ingredients. This gives Invasion Barbare vitality, but what makes it a brilliant piece of perfumery is the way the crisp, elegant citrus/herbal start is balanced by a warm, comforting, sensuous finish.

And while it’s categorized as a men’s fragrance, it’s refined enough for a woman to wear.

Check out Invasion Barbare in our Shop.