L’Eau d’Hiver – wintery and warm and watery

Photo: perfumeniche

I discovered Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle on a summer holiday in Rome many years ago. I was just beginning to explore niche fragrances then, so it was a new line to me. I remember thinking the bottles weren't ‘pretty’ in the traditional way and I noticed they had the name of the perfumer on them. For me, this was the beginning of appreciating the creator of the fragrances I was learning about. That day I took my time with each perfume in the line, sniffing, smelling and asking questions. And so, on that hot, sunny day in Rome, I bought my first bottle of L’Eau d’Hiver, or "water of winter" in English, signed by legendary perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. It was the start of a long and beautiful relationship.

Born into a family of perfumers in Grasse in 1947, he studied at Givaudan. In the years following graduation, he created fragrances for Hermès, Bulgari, Frédéric Malle, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and many others. Over time he became known for his uncluttered, minimalist style, and it’s on full display in L’Eau d’Hiver.

It opens with a citrusy-fresh bergamot, elegant and light, softened by an airy note of powdery, floral iris. Together, they create a delicate and serene opening that’s calming and comforting.  A hawthorn note follows and adds a touch of honeyed sweetness before a bouquet of soft, powdery heliotrope appears. Hedione comes next. It’s a synthetic jasmine substitute with a green, floral scent and a luminous quality rather than the indolic headiness of natural jasmine. As a young child in Grasse, Ellena used to pick jasmine with his grandmother to sell to perfumers. Hedione used here is the smell of jasmine experienced through the lens of memory. The heliotrope and jasmine combine to create a gorgeous, gentle, watery, white floral composition. Over time, the vanilla and almond aspects of the heliotrope linger, giving the base a soft creaminess that’s gently warmed by its cinnamon facet.

L'Eau d'Hiver dries down to a tender, ethereal veil of flowers held to the skin with a hint of honeyed sweetness. Ellena balances the fresh, crisp winter air with feelings of warmth and coziness in a true olfactory watercolour.

Check out L'Eau d'Hiver in our Shop