Skip to main content

Black by M. Micallef – Floral and fruity and seductive - February 19, 2016

Photo: Courtesy of M. Micallef

There is something about fragrances built around tuberose that resonate with me on a deep level, unconscious level. Which is to say, I don’t identify myself as someone who loves tuberose and I don’t automatically reach for tuberose perfumes, so that each time I smell a new tuberose fragrance, it is a surprise to me that I am so affected by it. From lush and dramatic Fracas, the classic reference tuberose, to the camphor/creamy combo of Tubéreuse Criminelle, to the naturalistic tuberose of Carnal Flower – the scent of tuberose moves my heart before it registers in my conscious brain.

Is this the result of some deep-seated early memory or encounter that imprinted me in some way? I don’t know. I just know that since I bought a back-up bottle of Black by French niche line M. Micallef I’m sleeping better.

Black is Micallef’s tribute to tuberose and was launched in 2011 as part of their Ananda collection, so it is sometimes called Black Ananda or Ananda Black. The bottle says ‘Black’ so let’s stick with that.

It opens with a jolt of citrus - juicy lemon and bitter orange – tempered by a note of succulent, sweet plum backed by sweet, floral, indolic jasmine. I love the fruity/floral balance at the opening. That jasmine though, hints at what’s to come: creamy, fleshy tuberose surrounded by the citrusy, honey-laced neroli and rich banana-faceted ylang-ylang. The heart echoes the opening but is richer and headier while having a feeling of lightness and freshness. The base of vanilla, tuberose and benzoin creates the impression of powdery-tinged floral sweetness.

The drydown is rich, slightly sweet and powdery. Those white flowers show up at the start and linger for hours on my skin. Bliss.
Black has a light and sunny feel and not the dark heaviness that the name implies. In fact it was designed as an evening counterpart to the more flowery Ananda, which explains the name.

The M. Micallef website says that is dedicated to the mysteries of the power of the seduction of women. Oh, those powers of seduction! Sultry, slinky, alluring – M. Micallef’s Black is black lace as opposed to black leather.

And really, the only thing to do when faced with the irresistible seduction of Black’s tuberose perfection is to surrender to it. I do. Regularly.

M. Micallef’s Black is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.