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COCO Mademoiselle

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COCO Mademoiselle EdT is ultra feminine and sleek right out of the bottle. Vibrant and juicy with sweet orange and bergamot, the fresh citrus accord becomes spiced with dewy rose in the heart, sweetened with an abstract of white florals - jasmine and ylang-ylang and mimosa - and hints of creamy peach and lychee. The sensation is full of life, not overpowering but warm and sunny, and very appealing. 

And then the genius of the two perfumers, Jacques Polge and Francois Demachy, is revealed. By their use of Patchouli Coeur, a refined distillation of the patchouli herb which removes its camphorous musty notes, and by blending it with salty musks and vetiver, the base takes on powdery facets, expanding a feeling of carefree elegance and sophistication, and balancing the fruity sweetness of the citrus and florals with a sensuous undertone of green earthiness. As other notes blend with the patchouli - dark Bourbon vanilla, nutty tonka bean and balsamic resins of opoponax (sweet myrrh) - the base becomes lush and rich and ambery, giving COCO Mademoiselle a warm and generous quality. Its beautiful waft goes on and on for hours, the perfect union of orange, rose and patchouli, its romantic floral warmth left on scarves and sweaters, a love note to yourself.

Since its launch twenty years ago, I’ve worn COCO Mademoiselle occasionally, but never truly warmed to it. Chanel COCO is my favourite Chanel, followed Cuir de Russie28 Le PausaChanel No. 5. I always loved its scent on others, but not on myself, until I tried the EdT, instead of the EdP. That made the difference, because of the stronger citrus and addition of lychee, and possibly other tweaks I’m not aware of. In any case, I’ve now joined the multitudes around the world who love and wear COCO Mademoiselle. 

Coco Mademoiselle is definitely not an exclusive or niche perfume, but it is undeniably a gorgeous fragrance, regarded as a contemporary classic from one of the most iconic luxury design houses in the world. It’s an example of what makes Chanel great. Their fragrance Chanel No.5 was launched in 1921, and last year in 2020 it was still listed as one the Top Ten selling perfumes by Glamour Magazine, and other surveys. One hundred years as a best seller!

Will COCO Mademoiselle be listed one hundred years after its launch in 2001, in 2101? Current trends would indicate YES. I know I’ll still be wearing it, wherever I am.


Notes: orange, bergamot, mandarin, Tunisian curacao, morning rose, Italian jasmine, ylang-ylang, mimosa, florentine iris, Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Bourbon vanilla, white musk, opoponax, tonka bean

Type: EdT

Parfumeurs: Jacques Polge, Francois Demachy


Price: $6.00