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Missoni Uomo - An elegant, gentle leather

Knowing my interest in perfume and vintage scents, a friend recently brought me a bottle of Missoni Uomo eau de toilette that she'd unearthed in her husband's wardrobe while packing for a move from house to condo. It was in the original box printed with the distinctive wavy Missoni knitwear pattern, and was half full. 

"Is it a good one?" she asked. I wasn't familiar with this 1980's men's scent so I told her to leave it with me to test and I'd let her know the next day. "Oh, that's okay, I want you to have it. Maybe it's good enough to write about." I was skeptical, because often vintage scents are past their prime or I just don't like them, but it turns out her instinct was right. Missoni Uomo is a good one, a very good one. 

Uomo was described by Missoni simply as a leather fragrance for men, but in truth it is an aromatic chypre with subtle leather notes that simmer through the dry-down. It is fresh, green, herbal, spicy, warm, floral, earthy, mossy, leathery, ambery, woody - a full-bodied and elegant fragrance that dries down in the masterful classic Italian style. 

It opens with a deliciously bitter accord of herbs and citrus and greens - basil, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, juniper berries - which deepens for about five minutes before starting to sweeten as the heart opens. Jasmine, carnation and rose are lightly sprinkled with cinnamon and coriander, cedarwood and green vetiver and patchouli add an earthy depth to the spicy florals, and Uomo becomes darker with the addition of oakmoss and soft leather notes as the base accord emerges slowly. 

A wonderful smoky powdery warmth builds in the dry-down as notes of amber, musk and tonka bean deepen, releasing subtle hints of dark vanilla and animalic skin scents that merge sensuously with the leather and oakmoss. The long dry-down is dense and complex, masterfully blended to waft elegantly for hours, never becoming intrusive or overwhelming, unlike many high-octane masculine scents from the 1980's.  

Missoni Uomo reflects the unique Missoni design aesthetic - quality materials create understated casual elegant clothing and home decorations.  A leather fragrance for men? Yes, but Uomo is a uniquely sophisticated gentle leather, easily worn by men and women. Better than many of today's overpriced niche fragrances, it's definitely "a good one", and it's a huge shame it was discontinued by Missoni.

Missoni Uomo (Vintage) is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $6.00 for 1 ml.