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Mitsouko Parfum Extrait - The masterpiece at its best

Champs Elysee, Paris -

I got an email earlier this week from the Netherlands from some new perfume lovers who are just beginning to seriously explore the world of fine perfumes, and they have questions about the Guerlain classics,  Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue,  Shalimar, etc. Which is better, EdT or EdP? What about the extraits, the parfum versions, are they really so much richer than the lower concentrations? And what about recent re-formulations? How do they compare to previous versions? We’re in the middle of a real conversation now, having some fun as I answer their questions and they make choices for their first order. 

A run-through of our Guerlain listings brought me up short. We’re missing the Mitsouko Parfum version, an inexplicable oversight which I’m going to fix right now.…

If you’ve read my post about Mitsouko, you know that this particular Guerlain chypre is my Holy Grail perfume. I was wearing and loving Mitsouko long before my perfume obsession fully developed, and long before Luca Turin ever picked up a pen and wrote The Perfume Guide. The connection to Mitsouko has everything to do with my real life – read about it here.

The Mitsouko I describe in my original post is actually the parfum concentration which was in the little bottle that was given to me years ago by my Paris boyfriend, and which started my devotion to this iconic scent. Mitsouko was then, and still is, a whole different experience than other perfumes. From my post in 2010:

“…Mitsouko is made for skin - in fact, skin should be listed as one of the ingredients. This stupendous fragrance doesn’t reveal itself in a predictable way, but I can tell you that you’ll smell sun-warmed peaches, a whiff of orange blossom, lemon or lime, roses, jasmine, soft ambery vanilla, damp green moss, sea salt, dried herbs, spices, woods, leather, smoky vetiver. Not in sequence, alternating, repeating, maybe together, maybe separately, perhaps strong, maybe just a whiff, almost sweet and then not sweet, filled with light then darker, mysterious, open, playful, satisfying, but always leaving you wanting more..."

My current bottle of the parfum is the most recent 2013 formulation, and it is the Mitsouko I remember from years ago. It is full and luscious, warm and plush, nothing overstated or out of balance, with creamy golden peach, cool mossy notes, velvety woods spiced with cinnamon and vanilla, a feast for the senses. Less citrusy and sharp than the EdT, not as fruity as the EdP, Mitsouko Parfum has a darker richer opulent complexity than the lighter versions, a depth that intrigues from the very first sniff. 

Beautifully balanced, elegant, mysterious , and sensual, Mitsouko in any of its fragrant variations is a timeless masterpiece. Eau de toilette, eau de parfum, or parfum, each Mitsouko version has a slightly different focus, but all of them have the same wonderfully long langorous warm drydown that feeds the senses with pure pleasure.

Someone, somewhere, commented that a person doesn’t choose Mitsouko – it chooses you. And if it does, you’re one of the lucky ones. I consider myself very lucky.

Mitsouko Parfum is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $20.00 for 1 ml.


Mitsouko EdT is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.

Mitsouko EdP is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $6.00 for 1 ml.