Launched in 2015 to commemorate the 145th anniversary of the founding of English niche fragrance house Penhaligon’s, No.33 is named for the Penhaligon’s shop at 33 St James Street in London.
William Penhaligon was a Cornish barber who moved to London in the 1860s. Along with his son Walter, he created and sold skin treatments, tonics, and scents for men and in 1870 he founded his eponymous fragrance house. In 1874, he opened his first boutique on Jermyn Street. A little while later he opened his second shop at 33 St James Street.
No. 33 opens fresh and citrusy with orange, grapefruit and bergamot. The bitterness of the bergamot is echoed by bitter, herbal artemsia. Coriander and clary sage heightened the herbal aspect of the opening. I am a sucker for herbal openings, so I am happy to drift here for a while until a note of aromatic lavender appears, its floral aspect enriched by violet, jasmine, rose, geranium and lily of the valley. Black pepper, ginger, saffron and cardamom gently warms it up. The lavender gently dominates a heart that is an smooth, seamless and smells gorgeous – just gorgeous. The base is dry and woody from vetiver and cedar, tempered with a light sweetness from Tonka bean, amber and vanilla with a rich note of tobacco threading through it. Moss gives it a whiff of the forest, while musk keeps it warm and sensuous.
On me, this aromatic fougère is a skin scent with a drydown that is smooth, clean and refined as a gentleman’s scent should be.
No. 33 isn’t a big, brash, celebration of a birthday so much as it is a distinguished marking of an event and a beautiful olfactory tribute to William Penhaligon’s legacy.
Notes: bergamot, orange, grapefruit, artemisia, coriander, clary sage, cypress, lavender, violet, black pepper, ginger, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, geranium, saffron, cardamom, amber, vetiver, musk, moss, tobacco, Tonka bean, vanilla, cedarwood
Type: EdC
Parfumeuer: Mike Parrott
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