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Nuit de Tubéreuse - In a word - STUNNING! (June 8, 2010 New Fragrance Listing)

My fresh-out-of the-box 100 ml. bottle of Nuit de Tubéreuse sits beside my laptop as I write this. I bought it today.

For me, this is a coup. Luckyscent in Los Angeles is taking pre-orders and shipping late June. No stores in Toronto have Nuit de Tubéreuse in stock yet – except the small shop where I found it today. Why do they have it, and no one else?  I have no idea, but Fate had a hand in this, because I’ve been craving this perfume since I first smelled it three weeks ago.

There’ve been several recent reviews of Nuit de Tubéreuse on the perfume blogs, and the collective opinion is that this newest L’Artisan release, created by Bertrand Duchaufour – the nose responsible for Timbuktu, Havane Vanille and most recently, Al Oudh – is STUNNING!

L’Artisan describes it on their website as “the perfume of a secret summer night in Paris... evoking bright lights and vibrating night life... a secret almost narcotic scent”, which tells us nothing about how the scent smells, but maybe a little bit about the “nuit” in its name.

 Duchaufour was interviewed by Denyse Beaulieu on her Grain de Musc blogspot (excellent 2-part interview, by the way - really worth reading!!). His words:

“We’ve played on the name in many ways, by unveiling the nocturnal smell of tuberose, its Mr. Hyde face, which had never been revealed by existing fragrances. Its strange, nocturnal, dark side, veering on the poisonous, the dangerous.”

If you’re expecting the big, white-floral “diva-style” tuberose of Fracas or Carnal Flower, you’ll be surprised, because Nuit de Tubéreuse features something new from the tuberose palette. Duchaufour has gone after the seductive, earthy green root – freshly cut – the hidden underside of tuberose.

Duchaufour: “The effects are so green that it becomes dark green, emerald green veering on blue. If I had to give this tuberose a colour, it would be a totally nocturnal green-blue sapphire…That’s why you can say “nuit de tubéreuse”. Night is a mask! “

There are a lot of fresh, almost fruity green notes right at the top… mango, citrus, pink pepper and pink berries, mixed with spices, green cardamom and clove...a clever blend of hot and cold. Then during the next thirty minutes, Nuit de Tubéreuse goes through this earthy-rooty phase, with a slight mushroom accord, like freshly-dug garden, from the green mango.

This creates a verrry interesting effect – the sillage is radiant, sparkling, but not LOUD! The scent seems to radiate upward and inward, not outwards - very much there, but hidden – (by the mask of night, I guess!)

The green earth notes fade, and the heart beats with the sweet, narcotic white florals - tuberose on a bed of orange blossom, ylang-ylang and rose, all kept warm and honeyed by broom and sweet angelica. Classic tuberose lovers begin to feel much more comfortable in the heart of this perfume.

But it doesn't stop there...the base vibrates with Duchaufour’s distinctive signature notes – woods, resins, incense. Sandalwood, pallisander, benzoin and styrax resins, muted with vanilla and soft musk, push the floral heart into the dusky night. The volume of the florals is damped down, making the scent even more internalized, almost hypnotic.

Duchaufour: “I played on vibration. So it vibrates at the top, the heart and the base; it’s very long-lasting, very diffusive. It’s an intimate, confidential vibration, but it vibrates well, it’s there. Yet it’s not overwhelming.”

Nuit de Tubéreuse is a strong, intelligent, seductive scent, never intrusive or overwhelming. What IS overwhelming is the fact that Duchaufour's upside-down creative approach worked, and the result is so, earthy, sweet, hot, cold, radiant, dark, sparkling, quiet.....

This perfume is, in a word, STUNNING.

Nuit de Tubéreuse is listed in our Decant Store. Decants are $5.00 for 1 ml.