Velvet Iris – green and creamy and carnal

Photo: perfumeniche

I was visiting one of my favourite bookstores in Paris, L'Écume des Pages on Boulevard Saint-Germain, a few weeks ago, and after cashing out, I decided to stroll along the boulevard for a bit. I stopped in my tracks when I came upon an Essential Parfums shop. So, I stepped into the shop for a little sniff.

I struck up a conversation with the sales assistant, who said they had just launched their latest release, Velvet Iris, signed by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, and I decided to settle in and learn more about it.

Essential Parfums was launched by Géraldine Archambault. Born into perfumery (her father worked for Rochas in the 70’s), she worked in the perfume industry for years and, over time, saw that many niche brands had moved away from the essentials of perfumery. They had become more focused on output, promotion, and marketing than on the fragrances they produced. So, in 2018, she took the leap and launched a line that focused on perfume essentials: putting perfumers' artistry at the centre of the process, prioritizing sustainability, keeping perfume costs down by reducing unnecessary packaging, and eliminating commercial middlemen and marketing whenever she could.

Her efforts enable her to bring sustainable fragrances created by top perfumers to market at fair prices. Velvet Iris is an excellent example of this.

Iris is one of my favourite notes in perfumery, but it isn’t one of Ms. Archambault’s. Yet, she wanted a unisex floral in her line, and Dominique Ropion delivered a beauty.

Velvet Iris is built around the orris/iris. On me, it opens bright, sparkling, and gently spicy, with pink pepper and fresh, green, peppery turmeric leaf. They’re joined by a note of vibrant, herbaceous Buchu leaf. It adds complexity to the fragrance, with its facets of tangy blackcurrant, cool green mint, and medicinal camphor. A surprise twist that creates an arresting and addictive opening. Then, orris root, clean, soft and earthy, starts to emerge. Galbanum joins the orris. Green and sharp with woody and resinous aspects, it reminds me of the smell of crushed green leaves on my hands after working in the garden. It links to woody and resinous aspects of sharp, vegetal lentisque. They balance the buttery orris as it slowly blooms on my warm skin, unveiling its velvety, powdery sensuality in a slow carnal dance. It rests on a base of milky, soft, and rich sandalwood, joined by Saffiano Leather, which gives Velvet Iris a creamy, refined, suede-like texture. Labdanum, leathery, amber-like and musky, completes the fragrance.

Velvet Iris dries down to a smooth, luxurious, compelling iris scent. What makes it stunning is that Ropion is the way the iris, the central character, follows an exciting green and spicy opening. The way it develops and evolves on skin gives it a pleasing roundness that any iris lover, or non-lover, would enjoy.

Check out Velvet Iris in our Shop.