Launched in 1974 by the house of Lubin, creators of exclusive luxury scents since 1798, L de Lubin is described in their promotional materials as “The heady scent for the 70’s, it was favoured by the pop idols on the disco dance floors.”

Reformulated in 2008 so as to conform to new health restrictions, by Lucien Ferrero, who created the original L de Lubin in 1974, the new L is virtually indistinguishable from the vintage.

Does it capture the disco era? That is open to interpretation – flashbacks are so personal – but what is certain is that L de Lubin is the perfect scent for right now. This very minute – now - because it is the perfect summer scent.

Lemon and bergamot give it a fresh, citrus start before yielding to tropical white  gardenia and ylang ylang warmed up with spicy black pepper. Close your eyes and you will find yourself in someplace exotic and warm. Exhale slowly. As it blooms on the skin, fragrant jasmine extends the white floral opening to the heart. Lush rose rounds out the jasmine while iris and lily add depth and dimension. Clove gives it a spiciness, while the chocolate/vanilla of tonka bean gives it a note of sweetness and along with a gourmand vibe. The base is softly woody, from rosewood and sandalwood.  Patchouli gives it an earthiness, vanilla gives it a slight sweetness, while heliotrope gives it a kiss of almond. Musk mellows it at out the drydown making it refined and elegant, no loud any beachy.

L de Lubin is a chypre, but not in the heavy, classical vein. It smells voluptuous and luxurious and at the same time fresh and modern, albeit with a retro wink. And, as much as I hate the masculine/feminine divide in perfume categories, this is a totally feminine fragrance. It has an exotic floral/woody warm sensuality that is lighthearted and happy-go-lucky, just like the days of summer.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, white gardenia, black pepper, ylang-ylang, jasmine, may rose, iris, lily, clove, tonka bean, rosewood, patchouli, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla and musk.

Type: EdT

Parfumeur: Lucien Ferrero