Sleight of Fern
Sleight of Fern
Launched in 2022 by Italian niche fragrance line Masue Milano, Sleight of Fern is the brand’s homage to traditional Italian fougeres but interpreted in a new way by the uber-talented Stephanie Bakouche.
The concept behind Masque Milano is that each fragrance represents a different act and scene in the 'Opera of Life,' as conceived by Brun and his partner, Riccardo Tedeschi. Sleight of Fern is Act IV, Scene Three of the opera.
The curtain rises on Act IV, Scene Three with Italian bergamot; its citrusy, fresh elegance is paired with aromatic French lavender that smells clean and sweet. I pick up its aspects of honey, hay and wildflowers. We are in fougere country, for sure, but there's a twist when a fig sap accord appears. On me, it smells green, not fruity and not sweet. Lentisque, fresh and piney adds another layer of green just as red thyme shows up and brings a rich herbaceousness to the mix. Fougeres may not have the scent of the fern plant, but Sleight of Fern's verdancy lets you experience the greenness of a fern plant and what a glorious, multi-faceted green jewel it is. The green connects to the green aspect of tuberose, the green facet of narcissus and the minty facet of geranium and draws them forward. The tuberose is exotic, opulent, and narcotic; the narcissus is rich, heady and floral. Together they add voluptuousness and sensuality to the fragrance that plays out against the rich green backdrop. It's just sublime. The green goes down to the base with patchouli and oakmoss. They sit atop creamy sandalwood and leathery birchwood and add sophistication to Sleight of Fern. Tonka bean absolute brings the coumarin – a reminder that this is a fougere. A sophisticated, modern, unisex fougere.
The name 'Sleight of Fern' is a play on the phrase 'sleight of hand,' which refers to skill in performing magic tricks. Is Stephanie Bakouche a magician? Maybe, but when I wear Sleight of Fern, I smell talent, dexterity, creativity, and genius. I also smell fabulous.
Notes: Italian bergamot, French lavender, fig sap accord, lentisk, red thyme, tuberose, geranium, narcissus, sandalwood, birchwood, patchouli, oakmoss, Tonka bean.