Launched in 2016 by Comme des Garçons Blackpepper is the blackpepper fragrance I had been seeking: a unisex fragrance that is unconventional but not strange or weird and a joy to wear and to smell.

Right off the top, there is a glorious blast of pungent Madagascar pepper. Is it too much? Nearly, but no. The word is that nose Antoine Maisondieu made blackpepper 20% of the formula. But don’t worry, he knows what he’s doing. Once the nose-tingling ends, austere, balsamy, cedarwood comes forward. I smell dark, spicy patchouli and resinous, musty oud. It comes from rich, fragrant Akigalawood, a synthetic created at Givaudan that has an odour profile similar to patchouli but with spicy, pepper and agarwood facets. The woods elongate the warmth of the pepper and soften it, creating a spicy, smoky glow. There’s a point about an hour into the fragrance when the woods and spiciness open up and allow a lush, fresh floral note to peek through – such a gorgeous surprise – before Tonka bean appears and sweetens it just enough. Oakmoss at the base grounds the woodiness and adds a slight sweetness while a musky accord binds it all together.

For all its pungency at the opening, Blackpepper dries down to a beautiful spicy/woody skin scent. Unconventional, exceptional, and so, so very wearable.

Notes: Madagascar pepper, cedarwood. Akigalawood (patchouli, agarwood), floral accord, Tonka bean and musky accord.