Launched in 1999, Tubéreuse Criminelle has gained mythical status over the years, becoming one of the ‘great whites’ along with Carnal Flower and Fracas. And, like the other members of the great white trinity, Tubéreuse Criminelle is no gateway tuberose fragrance.

Its calling card is a unique, defining opening with a camphor/menthol accord that smells chemical and medicinal. Like something you get from a magic marker. This camphor/menthol accord occurs naturally in tuberose, but instead of restraining or refining it, perfumer Christopher Sheldrake just let it be. It’s a good thing, too, because this accord is what makes Tubéreuse Criminelle unique, potent and exciting.

As the top notes fade, the lush, fatty, creamy aspects of tuberose come forward and stay centre stage. Enhanced by jasmine, orange blossom and hyacinth, they create a heart that’s rich and opulent. At the base, nutmeg and clove have a spicy warmth that’s bolstered by balsamic, rich styrax. Its slightly sweet aspect is echoed by a note of creamy, cozy vanilla, and musk rounds out the fragrance with its skin-like warmth.

Tubéreuse Criminelle was groundbreaking when it was launched. That theatrical, exciting, unexpected opening that transforms into a lush, opulent, fleshy rose that’s like a lady with a dark past.

Notes: Tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, hyacinth, nutmeg, clove, styrax, vanilla and musk.