Launched in 2005, Invasion Barbare, was one of the initial offerings from French indie line MDCI Parfums and the first perfume created by Stéphanie Bakouche.

Luca Turin gave it a five-star review and praised the perfumer, Stéphanie Bakouche, as a talent to watch. Invasion Barbare quickly became a cult favourite; today, it’s considered a classic.

It opens with crisp bergamot paired with sharp, refreshing grapefruit. These are followed by the green tang of violet leaves, linking to a note of aromatic lavender that is fragrant and fresh, with floral and woody undertones. We are definitely in fougère territory, but things are about to shift with the introduction of herbs and spices. White thyme leaves are spicy, and herbaceous with leather-like tones, while cardamom boosts the spicy warmth and adds a touch of sweetness. Artemisia is pungent, green, and bitter. As it moves to the base, costus, leathery, earthy and animalic gives Invasion Barbare virility. Patchouli is sweet, earthy, and woody, adding depth to the fragrance and supporting a note of cedarwood. Bourbon vanilla gives a warm, comforting sweetness to the mix that’s finished with musk.

Invasion Barbare dries down to a luxuriously refined scent that struts just a little bit. This is a modern update of a classic fougère that’s somehow new but familiar.

Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, violet leaves, leaves of white thyme, cardamom, lavender, ginger, Artemisia, patchouli, cedarwood, Bourbon vanilla and musk.